Одежда татар и их соседей 16-17 в. в литературных источниках

Средневековый костюм народов Средней Азии, Персии, Золотой Орды и Малой Азии
Феликс
Гость
Сообщения: 21
Зарегистрирован: 19 сен 2013, 22:36
Ваши интересы в истории: — Как можешь ты думать остаться в стороне от него? Ведь это живая история…
— Предпочитаю мертвую. Мертвая история пишется чернилами, живая же — кровью.
Чем вам интересен форум: Средняя Азия - Персия - Золотая Орда - Малая Азия
Откуда: Киев
Благодарил (а): 2 раза
Поблагодарили: 9 раз

Одежда татар и их соседей 16-17 в. в литературных источниках

Сообщение Феликс » 23 авг 2018, 13:04

Турецкий летописец Silahdar Findiklili Mehmed Aga (1658–1723)
https://ru.scribd.com/document/32814923 ... Romane-pdf
После того как оказали милости принцам (sultan) из свиты, одел Селим Гирея в дорогостоящие меха соболя, с подбивкой из сукна (cuha), а трёх принцев из окружения одел в контуши (kontas) из сукна и позволил вернутся в свою Орду.
После того как некоторое время поговорили об военной обстановке, крымский хан получил кабаницу из соболя, с подбивкой красного бархата, а на колпак на голову подарили два искустно сработанных сургуча(sorguciuri). Так же ему подарили колчан и саблю.
Феликс
Гость
Сообщения: 21
Зарегистрирован: 19 сен 2013, 22:36
Ваши интересы в истории: — Как можешь ты думать остаться в стороне от него? Ведь это живая история…
— Предпочитаю мертвую. Мертвая история пишется чернилами, живая же — кровью.
Чем вам интересен форум: Средняя Азия - Персия - Золотая Орда - Малая Азия
Откуда: Киев
Благодарил (а): 2 раза
Поблагодарили: 9 раз

Одежда татар и их соседей 16-17 в. в литературных источниках

Сообщение Феликс » 23 авг 2018, 13:13

Эвлия Челеби
Албания

Elbasan
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1670_Chelebi1/index.html
Men's dress. They all wear long broadcloth robes and turbans. The young men wear red felt caps, vests, buttoned trousers and kubadi slippers.

Women's dress. Most of the women and girls wear broadcloth robes and go about in flat headpieces which they cover with white muslin kerchiefs.
Gjirokastra
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1670_Chelebi2/index.html
Men’s clothing. The old men wrap a turban around their heads and dress in every colour except blue. They stroll about in manly fashion wearing buttoned trousers. Young men wear a short-sleeved shirt and a very short-skirted, pleated undergarment of red silk and satin. They leave their arms and thighs uncovered, so their private parts are quite public. Only a silk shirt with white hems covers them down to the groin. Other parts of their bodies show immodestly through the very thin shirts and breaches they have on. These breaches - so-called - hardly covers their knees. They are actually trousers, wide in the lower part and like a white sheet tied around the loins. To urinate or defecate - if you will excuse the expression - they do not even need to undo the drawstring. In short the young men have very strange outfits, but they are also very chaste.
Shkodra
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1662_Chelebi/index.html
Clothing of the manly men. They all wear broadcloth garments and tight buttoned trousers with a teybend silk waistband and kubadi shoes. On their heads, they wear Albanian calpacs made of sable. Both learned scholars (ulema) and rakish youths (levendat) alike carry kortela knives in their belts, and the youth are never to be seen without their swords and shields.

Clothing of the demure women. They all wear full-length broadcloth coats and a strange conical headpiece, like the caps worn by the imperial guards, and they wrap themselves in white muslin wraps. On their feet they wear soft yellow indoor boots and shoes.
Vlora
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1670_Chelebi3/index.html
The young men, however, are all brigands. They wear short skin-tight clothes, as is the fashion throughout the Mediterranean Archipelago, with bare calves, fezzes on their heads, black Circassian-style shoes on their feet, and white Bedouin-style cloaks on their backs. They are ghazis always ready for holy war. Most of these ghazis look like Kalenderi dervishes: shirtless, barefoot and bareheaded, with brand marks on their heads and gashes on their bare chests, and their hearts rent with anguish.
Македония
Ohrid
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1670_Chelebi4/index.html
Dress: The young men wear sable and martin calpacs lined with red broadcloth, and varicoloured broadcloth jackets, and tight trousers fastened with hooks and eyes, and strut about with yellow kubadi slippers on their feet and scimitars at their waists. The old men wind varicoloured gold ornamented Muhammadan turbans on their heads and wear serhaddi, kontosh, or ferace cloaks of varicoloured broadcloth. But the women wear ferace cloaks with ample sleeves and bind round turbans on their flat heads and go for elegant strolls about the bazaars.
Косово
Vushtrria
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1660_Chelebi/index.html
The inhabitants of Vushtrria are Rumelians. Most of them do not speak Bosnian, but do speak Albanian and Turkish. They wear broadcloth garments and frontier-style red calpacs with low crests of fur and sable. They turn around (?) the fur of their calpacs, and black silken fringes are visible on the edges. They have teybend waistbands, carry knives of the kortela varsak variety, (9) and wear red trousers with silver buttons and elegant kubadi shoes. Such is the fine dress of the Rumelians.
Черногория
Podgorica
http://www.albanianhistory.net/1662_Chelebi/index.html
And in accordance with the hadith, "The best garment is short," their garments are so light, it is as though there were [no?] garments on those huge bodies. On their feet they wear tight-fitting rawhide sandals. And in accordance with the expression, Baldir durada ("It is honey when it is still"), they leave their calves uncovered, and do not even wear breeches but just a pair of fustian trousers attached to the waist. Most do not know what a shirt is, but instead wear a ridiculous short and narrow felt jacket which leaves their chests and shoulder blades uncovered. Funny-looking also is the tiny headpiece - the size of a cup, to cover their kettle-sized heads! - which is tied at the sides and fixed with string around their necks. God knows what a makeshift look those little black skullcaps have atop those huge head.
Аватара пользователя
velizariy
Site Admin
Сообщения: 10513
Зарегистрирован: 17 окт 2007, 00:22
Ваши интересы в истории: От Антики до Первой Мировой.
Чем вам интересен форум: Админ я тут, вот и админю. :)
Откуда: Киев
Благодарил (а): 48 раз
Поблагодарили: 47 раз
Контактная информация:

Одежда татар и их соседей 16-17 в. в литературных источниках

Сообщение velizariy » 23 авг 2018, 22:42

Спасибо за подборку. Разгребать и разгребать. :hi:
"Знание — столь драгоценная вещь, что его не зазорно добывать из любого источника".
Фома Аквинский
"Чудеса и диковины! Передай дальше!"
Рэй Брэдбери
Феликс
Гость
Сообщения: 21
Зарегистрирован: 19 сен 2013, 22:36
Ваши интересы в истории: — Как можешь ты думать остаться в стороне от него? Ведь это живая история…
— Предпочитаю мертвую. Мертвая история пишется чернилами, живая же — кровью.
Чем вам интересен форум: Средняя Азия - Персия - Золотая Орда - Малая Азия
Откуда: Киев
Благодарил (а): 2 раза
Поблагодарили: 9 раз

Одежда татар и их соседей 16-17 в. в литературных источниках

Сообщение Феликс » 26 авг 2018, 18:55

Грузия

АРКАНДЖЕЛО ЛАМБЕРТИ. ОПИСАНИЕ КОЛХИДЫ ИЛИ МИНГРЕЛИИ (1654)
http://www.vostlit.info/Texts/Dokumenty ... i/text.htm
Одежда.

Этот народ так беден, что одевается в лохмотья из шерстяного покрывала, которые спускаются у них от пояса до колен. Знатные употребляют иностранные ткани. К кожаному поясу, покрытому золотыми бляхами, прицепляют, кроме сабли, все, что может быть необходимо в путешествии нож, точило, ремень шириною в три пальца и длиною в пол локтя, огниво для высекания огня, два маленьких мешочка, один с солью другой с перцем и прочими пряностями, шило, нитки, иглу и даже восковую свечку. Рубаха вокруг шеи и внизу выткана золотом. Для того чтобы видна была эта щегольская отделка, они выпускают рубаху из штанов, а куртку, которую носят сверх рубахи, кроят короче последней. Во время сильного холода они надевают род кафтана подбитого мехом. Шапки их остроконечны.
Michele Membre, Relazione... (1539-1542)

http://foreigners-georgia.blogspot.com/ ... 42_23.html
The Mingrelians go very poorly dressed, all with short cotton clothes and unshod, which we value for nothing. But it is quite true that all their feet look as if they were scabby. They wear on their heads a piece of felt like a mitre; they are all very small. To the north are many high mountains. The Mingrelian gentlemen wear very long clothes and a pair of boots of sheepskin leather, not having a leather sole but all of that sheepskin; also coloured felt on the head; and they are unbearded, with long moustaches such as the Iberians [eastern Georgians]have.

The King can have, by what was said, horsemen 7,000 in number, who are called aznavurs. The said aznavurs are much bigger men than the rest of us and have long, black moustaches; and they shave the beard. And they wear clothes, that is very long stockings of cotton cloth, of very coarse cotton, and cloth breeches, with, over the stockings, boots of sheepskin leather, and a quilted shirt of coarse cotton cloth, and a very long dolman of cotton cloth; and on the head a felt hat with a very long fine top. Which felts are coloured. Their arms are swords, lances, shield, bow and arrows, iron mace, mail coat, cuirassine, half helmet, plate gauntlets, good horses with good silk covers such that an arrow cannot go through them. So, when one of the said aznavurs rides to go to the field of battle, he wears all those arms.
Leonhard Rauwolf, Aigentliche beschreibung der Raiss in die Morgenlaender (1583)

http://foreigners-georgia.blogspot.com/ ... liche.html
Near the glorious City of Trebizond. situated on the Euxine [Black] Sea, begins the Country of the Georgia, and butts toward the south upon Armenia. These are very civil and simple people, but yet strong and brave warriors; they esteem and honor among other saints, but chiefly for warlike businesses, as their Patron, the Knight St. George, from whom they take their denomination. Their merchants come very often in great caravans to Aleppo, and are, according to all appearance in their shape and posture like the Persians, only that these are more whitish, and the others more tawny and browner: they wear also like them short flying coats, and long and wide drawers [pants].
Francois de La Boullaye-Le Gouz, Les Voyages et observations (1657)

http://foreigners-georgia.blogspot.com/ ... z-les.html
The Gurgi or Georgians have long hair in the front but shave it on the back of the head, which is covered with a fur cap, in the manner of the Poles or Tartars.
Jean Chardin, Journal du voyage du chevalier Chardin en Perse & aux Indes (1673)

http://foreigners-georgia.blogspot.com/ ... ge-du.html
Their Habit is peculiar; and unless they be the Ecclesiastical Persons, they wear but very little beard. They shave the top of their heads in a circle but allow the rest of their hair to grow down to their eyes, and then clip it round at an even length. They cover their Heads with a light cap of felt, very thin pared and cut into several half-moons around edges. In the winter they wear a fur bonnet: They are moreover so beggarly [gueux] and so wretched [miserables], that for fear of spoiling their caps or their bonnets in the rain, they will put them in their pouches, and go bare-headed. Over their bodies they wear little shirts [chemises] that fall down to their knees, and tuck into a straight pantaloon. Nor indeed is there any habit in the world more deformed then theirs. They carry a [long] rope at their girdles, to tie together such people or cattle which they rob from their neighbors or take in war. The nobles wear leather girdles four fingers broad, full of silver studs, at which they hang a knife, a whetstone, and a steel to strike fire: together with three leather purses, the one full of salt, the other of pepper, and the other with pack-needles, lesser-needles, and thread. The poor people go almost naked; such is their misery not to be paralleled anywhere else; not having any thing to cover their nakedness but a pitiful felt resembling the chlamys of the Ancients; into which they thrust their heads, and turn which way they please as the Wind sits; for it covers but one side of their bodies, and falls down no lower than their Knees. There are some, that are pared very thin to keep out the Water, which are not so heavy as the common sort; that are ready to weigh a man down, especially when thorough wet. He that has a shirt and a pair of pitiful drawers, thinks himself rich; for almost all of them go bare-Foot; and such of the Colchians as pretend to shoes, have nothing but a piece of a buffalo's hide, and that untanned too; this piece of raw hide is attached to their feet with a thong of the same: so that for all these sort of sandals, their feet are as dirty as if they went bare-foot.

Almost all the Mingrelians, both men and women, even the most noble and wealthy, rarely have but one shirt [chemise] and one pair of breeches [callecon] at a time; which last them at least a year: in all which time they never wash them more than three times.
Ответить