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Tılsımlı Gömlekler
Hülya Tezcan

Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi Koleksiyonundan Tılsımlı Gömlekler, Topkapı Sarayı'nın, Padişah Elbiseleri Koleksiyonu'nda bulunan seksen yedi adet tılsımlı gömlek, bir takma yaka, beş takke, on yazılı örtü ile yaklaşık yüz parçayı içeren tasarımıyla göz kamaştıran koleksiyonluk bir kitap... Doç. Dr. Hülya Tezcan'ın araştırmaları Ersu Pekin'in göz alıcı tasarımıyla birleşerek ortaya muhteşem bir eser çıkardı...

Sarayda padişahların ve saray ehlinin normal kıyafetlerinin altına giydikleri tılsımlı gömleklerin, kişileri nazara, her türlü kötülüğe karşı koruduğuna, hastalara şifa verdiğine inanılırdı. Savaşa veya sefere çıkılmadan önce üzerinde Fetih Suresi veya fethi müyesser kılacak farklı bazı ayetlerin yazılı olduğu tılsımlı gömlek giyilirdi. Saraya ait bu koleksiyonda Cem Sultan'dan III. Murad'a kadar belgeli, Veysel Karani'den Abdülkadir Geylani'ye kadar onlara atfedilen, İslâm sembolizminin örneklerini taşıyan pek çok gömlek bulunur.
Tılsımlı Gömlekler kitabında gömleklere daha çok sanatsal açıdan yaklaşılmış, üzerlerindeki hat ve motiflerin muhteviyatı üzerinde hususiyetle durulmuştur. Kitabelerde adı geçen sultanların ve devlet büyüklerinin bu gömlekleri ne sebeple yaptırmış olabilecekleri araştırılmıştır. Kaynaklarda o kişilerin hayatıyla ilgili bilgilere ulaşılmaya çalışılmış ve bazı gömleklerin ne amaçla hazırlandığı hakkında tatminkâr yorumlar yapılabilmiştir.

Kitapta her eser için katalog bilgisi verilerek son kısım kataloga ayrılmıştır. Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi'nde bulunan iki sultan gömleği de kataloga dâhil edilmiştir. Bu iki gömlekten birisi 15. yüzyıl başına ait olması ve Osmanlı padişahlarının erken dönem modasını yansıtması bakımından çok mühimdir. İkincisi Türk ve İslam Eserleri müzesinin kuruluşu sırasında Türk müzecilere danışmanlık yapan Alman Frederick Sarre'nin Avrupa'da satılmak üzereyken Türk devletinin satın alması konusunda yardımcı olduğu gömlektir. Ünlü müzeci Sarre'nin yayınlarında bahsettiği fakat akıbetinin ne olduğunun bilinmediği bu gömleğin Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi'nde olduğu tespit edilerek kitaba konmuştur.

Tılsımlı Gömlekler, üzerlerindeki yazı ve süslemelerle hat ve tezhip sanatında ulaşılan mertebeyi gösteren, dönemin sosyal yaşamını ortaya koyan adeta konuşan tarih niteliğindedir. Çözülemeyen şifreli kodlarıyla gizemini hâlâ koruyan giysiler, geçmişle günümüz arasında köprü kuran eşsiz bir kültür mirasıdır.
(Tanıtım Bülteninden)

http://www.nadirkitap.com/kitapara_sonu ... yfaara=ARA

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Palestinian Costume
Shelagh Weir

The traditional costumes of the Palestinian villagers and Bedouin are of exceptional beauty and diversity, especially the festive costumes of the women with their lavish silk embroidery and patchwork and their dramatic headdresses encrusted with coins.

This book surveys male and female fashions from the early nineteenth century to the end of the twentieth, and describes the main regional styles of costume, their materials and ornamentation, against the background of Palestinian life and culture. The emphasis throughout the book is on the social and symbolic significance of costume, and the final chapters analyze in detail the language of costume in the context of the wedding.

The book is based on extensive field research the author has conducted at intervals since 1967 among Palestinians in Israel, the Occupied Territories, and Jordan. The illustrations include studio photographs of magnificent garments in museum collections, archive photographs from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and recent photographs of costumes still made and worn.

http://www.amazon.com/Palestinian-Costu ... d_sim_b_27

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Traditional Palestinian Costume: Origins and Evolution
Hanan Karaman Munayyer

A joyous celebration of pattern and color, and of an enduring Palestinian tradition
The historical and cultural richness of Palestine is reflected visually in its costume and embroidery. Distinguished by boldness of color, richness of pattern, and diversity of style, and combined with great needlework skill, these textiles have long played an important role in Palestinian culture and identity and manifested themselves in every aspect of Palestinian life.
Based on over twenty-five years of extensive field research and the culling of museum resources and publications from around the world, this book presents the most exhaustive and up-to-date study of the origins of Palestinian embroidery and costume-from antiquity through medieval Arab textile arts to the present. It documents region by region the evolution of costume and the textile arts in Palestine in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. It is lavishly illustrated with over 500 full-color photographs from the highly praised Munayyer Collection, which includes a whole range of embroidered textiles from traditional costumes and coin headdresses of Palestinian village women to cloaks and jackets worn by village men to belts, sashes, and footwear. The exquisite colors of the silk stitching on natural linens are a feast for the eye.
The sumptuous photography and author's well-informed text greatly enrich our appreciation of Palestinian embroidery and make this book a valuable resource that displays this unique art in all its splendor.

http://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Pales ... gy_b_img_b

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5000 Years of Chinese Costumes
Gao Chunming (Author), Zhou Xun (Author, Editor), Chunming Gao (Editor)

Using written records, paintings, figurines, and actual garments and fabrics when available, the authors have created a chronological record of Chinese dress and hair styles from ancient times to the 20th century. Dress of the upper classes, military, common people, and of both men and women are included. In addition to photographs of relevant historical artifacts, brightly colorful drawings of costumes are provided and give the book much of its visual interest. With its appealing graphics, award-winning book design, and readable text, suitable for both lay readers and students; such details as garment measurements make it useful to scholars and costume designers. Kathryn W. Finkelstein, M.L.S., Cincinnati
Copyright 1988 Reed Business Information, Inc.

http://www.amazon.com/5000-Years-Chines ... im_sbs_b_4

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Silken Threads: A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam

http://www.amazon.com/Silken-Threads-Hi ... grid_i_0_2

Early in this sumptuously illustrated volume, Chung (Art of Oriental Embroidery) notes that she has produced three of the most significant books on the history of Asian textiles and embroidery; such a statement might appear arrogant if it weren't true. Her latest achievement combines the lavish beauty of an art book with a hefty text that will be invaluable to scholars of textile history and Asian art. Chung makes an exhaustive review of her topic, covering the evolution of stitching techniques, colors and patterns in various regions. She elucidates the meaning and uses of particular patterns—including an entire chapter on Dragon robes—revealing how these elements were used to distinguish class and rank. Though Chung's prose style is mostly workmanlike, her skill as a master embroiderer comes through in her descriptions of stitching techniques, which will delight serious practitioners of the craft. Asian art enthusiasts will treasure the hundreds of beautifully reproduced images, including detail views that are as instructive about Asian embroidery technique as the text itself. 350 illus., 275 in full color, as well as 8 clear and well-organized tables. (Sept.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

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The Worldwide History of Dress

The definitive costume book: a glorious celebration of ethnographic clothing that brilliantly traces influences from culture to culture around the globe.
From Neolithic plant-fiber skirts, Ancient Egyptian linen shifts, and Classical togas through Mongolian shamanic robes, Japanese kimonos, and Indian saris to nineteenth-century Tyrolean dirndls, contemporary African ceremonial attire, and today's Middle Eastern burqas, every notable geographical region, historical period, and style of dress is covered here.
All aspects of dress and accessories are discussed: basic men's and women's clothing, footwear, outerwear, hairstyles, headgear, jewelry, armor, special costumes, garment decoration, and face and body modification. More than one thousand illustrations include both vintage and modern-day photographs of local people in local clothing; color plates of museum-quality artifacts on display or posed on mannequins; historical paintings, miniatures, woodblock prints, and other artworks showing traditional clothing; line drawings illustrating traditional motifs and designs; and more than fifty specially commissioned maps.
As well as discovering remarkable examples of actual garments and accessories, Patricia R. Anawalt has unearthed stunning representations of authentic worldwide dress in the form of statues, figurines, busts, stone plaques, monumental carvings, friezes, murals, mosaics, and pottery. Historical backgrounds on each region include descriptions of population, geography, and climate, allowing the reader to understand fully the development of an area's clothing customs. 1,100 illustrations and photographs, 800 in color

http://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-History ... pd_sim_b_2
Картинки: http://www.sungoodbooks.com/goods.php?id=1893
http://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-History ... pd_sim_b_2

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Russian Textiles: Printed Cloth for the Bazaars of Central Asia
Susan Meller (Author), Don Tuttle (Photographer), Kate Fitz Gibbon (Contributor), Annie Carlano (Contributor), Robert Kushner (Contributor)

http://www.amazon.com/Russian-Textiles- ... pd_sim_b_1

RUSSIAN TEXTILES reveals for the first time the beautiful, unusual, and quirky machine-printed cotton cloth that flooded the bazaars of Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, Khiva, and Kokand under the Russian/Soviet control of Central Asia.
These examples are from the author's collection and most have never before been seen - they lay hidden throughout a tumultuous history as linings of Uzbek, Turkmen, and Tajik robes.
The format is large (12.5"x10.5"); the full color photos(over 200) superb; all-in-all, a gorgeous and informative book on a subject most people never knew existed.

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Afghan Embroidery
Bernard Dupaigne (Author), Cousin Francoise (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Afghan-Embroidery ... Embroidery
http://www.textilemuseumshop.org/index. ... &Itemid=28

Each picture in this book is a celebration of the daily life of the Afghans. It was conceived by UNHCR as a homage to Afghan women. From mother to daughter, they hand down traditions and ensure their survival. Recently in war, and now, we hope, in peace. The time has come to go back home; a home that may be ruined but where women are once again busy stitching for the future.
We wished to mark this moment by showing works of beauty and love. The Musée de l'Homme gave us access to its collections assembled by generations of travellers from all parts of Afghanistan; and we hope that all Afghans will recognize in this their common heritage. To them this book is dedicated.
The Foundation de France shared our aim of preserving the past; it helped UNHCR complete the project and make this book freely available to those for whom it was intended.

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Uzbek Embroidery in the Nomadic Tradition: The Jack and Aviva Robinson Collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts [Hardcover]
Minneapolis Institute of Arts (Author), Kate Gibbon (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Uzbek-Embroidery- ... +Tradition
http://www.textilemuseumshop.org/index. ... &Itemid=28

Central Asia's famous Silk Road is the source of this dynamic, highly abstracted embroideries of the Uzbek peoples. In this book, detailed color illustrations of the nearly 100 works in the Jack A. and Aviva Robinson Collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, as well as numerous historic and contemporary photographs, provide unparalleled access to the styles and techniques for which the embroideries of the Lakai and Kungrat nomads and the refined textiles of the city of Sharisabs are renowned. History, anthropology, and mythic tales blend with women's textile magic in this first, fascinating publication illuminating a brilliant artistic tradition.
207pp.; all color; Hardcover

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Colors of the Oasis: Central Asian Ikats
Sumru Belger Krody (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Colors-Oasis-Cent ... im_sbs_b_5
http://www.textilemuseumshop.org/index. ... &Itemid=28

Colors of Oasis will feature a selection from the 185 high caliber Central Asian ikats given to The Textile Museum by collector Murad Megalli in 2005. The stunning textiles in the catalog will include coats for men and women, women's dresses and pants, as well as cradle covers, hangings and fragments.
304pp.; 108 full pages of double page spread plates; 185 individual catalogue images; 90+ historic photographs, details of ikats, comparative material, and diagrams; Softcover

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Ottoman Embroidery
Marianne Ellis (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Ottoman-Embroider ... Embroidery

This book is a celebration of the extensive collection of Ottoman embroidery at the V and A which ranges from the middle of the 16th century to 1900. In addition to illustrating over 100 major pieces, an introductory text puts the collection in context, explaining who the Ottomans were and their impact on Europe. The embroideries themselves include pieces such as sashes, kerchiefs and scarves which were made to satisfy the requirements of the Ottoman household and are strongly redolent of an exotic way of life. The embroideries can be divided into pre- and post-1720, when the Ottomans made peace with Central and Western Europe, and incorporated many aspects of Western art into their textile traditions. It was not until the 19th century however, that Ottoman embroidery in the form of towels and napkins began to appear in public and private collections in Britain. The book is illustrated with 145 embroideries which are split into the four most characteristic Ottoman techniques: surface darning, laid and couched, double running and double darning. Above all it is the unique double-sided embroideries that are fascinating to Western observers where the same basic stitch has been used over five centuries. This type of embroidery continues to be carried out today by a few skilled practitioners. All techniques are clearly explained through specially commissioned diagrams, which provide simple guidance and invaluable information for needle workers.

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Flowers of Silk and Gold: Four Centuries of Ottoman Embroidery
Sumru Belger Krody (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Flowers-Silk-Gold ... Embroidery
http://www.textilemuseumshop.org/index. ... &Itemid=28

This volume, celebrating The Textile Museum's seventy-fifth anniversary, introduces the rich variety of Ottoman embroidered textiles held by the museum. The Textile Museum's holdings of close to one hundred embroidered textiles in the Ottoman tradition are significant in their quantity and quality. Rarely viewed or published until now, these textiles offer themselves as a resource for our knowledge of Ottoman culture. The textiles selected for exhibition may be divided into two categories: home furnishings and articles of clothing. Each was created to define a space or facilitate a social act or ritual. These objects link the private to the public world. As author Sumru Belger Krody suggests in her exploration of the domestic environment in which these textiles were made and used, these are objects that tacitly represent the social contract - that tie the people who made them and used them to one another, and to the external world.
160pp.; all color; Softcover

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Embroideries & Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Ashmolean Handbooks)
Marianne Ellis (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Embroideries-Samp ... pd_sim_b_5

Shown are rare embroideries and woven striped silks, painted fabrics and knitting from time of the Tulunid, Fatimid, and Ayyubid, through to the Mamluk Sultanate of Egypt and Syria, up to the Ottoman conquest. Included are decorative objects , etc.

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Kaitag: Art for Life: Embroidered Textiles of Dagestan
Carlo Scaramuzza (Editor), Robert Chenciner (Contributor), Luigi Molinis (Contributor), Moshe Tabibnia (Contributor)
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http://www.amazon.com/Kaitag-Carlo-Scar ... rds=Kaitag
http://www.textilemuseumshop.org/index. ... &Itemid=28

This book documents 60 kaitag examples, precious embroidered silk products in Dagestan (north-eastern Caucasus) from European private collections, presented in Pordenone, Italy for the first time.
These rare artifacts made by village women, used by families for the birth, marriage and death of its members are dated form the seventeenth to the nineteenth century and are an asset of incalculable cultural value, passed down from generation to generation as a family heritage. Kaitag known for their great beauty and aesthetic modernity, have now become an absolute rarity in great demand in the art market, but hardly accessible to nonspecialist.
In English and Italian.
152pp.; all color; Hardcover

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Recent Excavations of Textiles in China
edited by Zhao Feng

http://www.textile-art.com/zf/zf.html#anchorre

Catalogue of the exhibition of the same name held at the China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou, to coincide with the International Conference on Textile Archaeology in China, 5-6 November 2002. The exhibits were selected from textiles found at seven sites, mostly within the last decade, ranging in date from the Han to the Ming dynasty: the Yumi kingdom site at Keriya River, near Khotan; the Han/Jin tombs at Niya in Xinjiang; the Han/Jin tombs at the Yingpan burial ground near Loulan; the Dulan burial ground in Qinghai province; the Liao dynasty tombs at Daiqintala, Inner Mongolia; the Yuan dynasty finds at Dove Cave in Hebei province; the Ming dynasty tomb of Lady Wu at Nanchang.
- All 85 exhibits illustrated in full colour plates, with numerous details and macro details showing the designs and the technical construction.
- Chinese and English text.