Головные уборы Ближнего Востока

[Timurid]

Оригинал статьи: "Quilted cap, Asian style" by Christian de Holacombe, Guild Chronicler
Благодарности за ссылку: Rusia с Тоже Форума
Статью к переводу подготовил: Nickolay
Перевод: Анна Замерлюк (г. Воронеж)

Стеганая шапка, Азиатский стиль

Простые стеганые шапки, как та справа, входят в число нескольких законченных предметов одежды, которые сохранились со времен эры Мамелюк (14в.) в южном Средиземноморье.
В частности этот предмет, сейчас в Кливлендском музее, сделан из зеленого, коричневого и темно-голубого шелка с арабской надписью, провозглашающей «Слава нашему господину, Султану!». Подкладка льняная и выстегана узором из параллельных/дублирующихся шестиугольников. Она сделана из цельного обода, обрамляющего голову, и из собранного из кусочков верха, состоящего из 6 слегка изогнутых треугольников. Высота всей шапки около 13 см.
Как было упомянуто выше, такие предметы одежды чаще были выстеганы простыми, утилитарными узорами. Но я позволил стеганому узору из Нойн Юла вдохновить меня на дизайн немного другой шапки, украшенной спиральным выстеганным узором, рисунок которого вы найдете ниже.

Проще всего сначала вышить узор перед тем, как резать ткань и собирать шапку. Чтобы шапка подошла вам по размеру, обмотайте измерительную ленту горизонтально вокруг головы как раз над бровями. Отметьте это измерение, добавьте около 5см на припуск, у вас получился рабочий размер головы. При выстегивание узора происходит некоторое уменьшение количества ткани, для этого вам и потребуются дополнительные 5 см. Отметьте прямоугольник шириной 7,62 см и добавьте по краям по 2,54см для швов. Это ваш головной обод, но не вырезайте его пока!
Теперь разделите ваш рабочий размер на 4, получится ширина вашего узора. Скопируйте указанный ниже узор и подгоните его размер так, чтобы ширина повторяющегося узора (между красными линиями) была равна ширине, которую вы только что высчитали. Переведите нижнюю часть узора на обод вашей шапки, который вы отметили на ткани, так, чтобы получилось ровно 4 повтора.
Затем нарисуйте и отметьте 4 треугольника, как на рисунке, добавляя по 1,30см по краям для швов – если вы используете лоскутки, что очень хорошо для данной работы, треугольники могут быть вырезаны из любых лоскутков, подходящих по размеру, при условии, что они изготовлены из ровного материала. Скопируйте треугольный спиральный узор на них.
Положите тонкий ватин между отмеченной вами тканью и простой подкладкой. Для создания средневекового вида лучше использовать хлопковый ватин. Некоторые виды хлопкового ватина обработаны таким образом, что производят впечатление толстого войлока; с ними проще работать. Когда закончите выстегивать узор, вырежете детали. Не забудьте про припуски на швы!
Вот удобная позиция для ваших рук при стегании, независимо от типа шва: прямой или обратный.
Вы сможете просто сшить детали шапки вместе, начиная с деталей верха, оставляя припуски на швы внутри, которые будут закрыты полосками ткани или подкладкой.

Наиболее аккуратный, но самый трудоемкий, способ сшивания – сложить 2 детали лицевыми сторонами, отвернуть ватин, сшить только края ткани.
Разгладить шов, перевернуть на изнаночную сторону, подрезать ватин, вылезающий за шов.
Затем подверните один край подкладки и пришейте его к краю другой детали.

[Timurid]

Резервная копия фотографий: https://goo.gl/photos/c3eTR1s6UpfcCtJA6

Подобные головные уборы мы можем видеть в восточном зале Государственного Эрмитажа (г. Санкт-Петербург).
Источник: галерея Тоже Форума
Автор фотографий: Sasa
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... &image=708
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... &image=709
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... &image=710
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... &image=711
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... &image=712
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... &image=713

The State Hermitage, Saint Petersburg, Russia.
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... image=7278
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... image=7277

ИЗ Галереи ТФ
Шапочка. Производство возможно Каир. Белореченские курганы, Северный Кавказ.
Конструктивно те же тюбитеи: четыре клина и широкий обод.

http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... image=1982
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... image=1981
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... image=1980
http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php? ... image=1979

[Timurid]

Вышитая хлопчатобумажная тимуридская шапка-талисман
Иран, 15 век.

Подробнее на английском-

A TIMURID EMBROIDERED COTTON TALISMANIC CAP
IRAN, 15TH CENTURY

Of simple rounded form, the top with a circle containing eleven lines of naskh within a frame of a similar band of inscription, in a broad border of diagonal panels of similar inscription between further similar stripes, all the inscriptions enclosed within decorative bands executed in light blue and ivory silk within silver-thread outlines, damages, outer borders fragmentary, mounted
8¼in. (21cm.) diam.
Special Notice
No VAT will be charged on the hammer price, but VAT at 15% will be added to the buyer's premium which is invoiced on a VAT inclusive basis.
Pre-Lot Text
The embroidery on the crown is from the Qur'an, the Throne Verse, Sura ii, al-baqara, vv. 255-256 and Qu'ran sura cxii, (al-ikhlas) repeated twice.
There appear not to be many published comparable Timurid examples. The Newberry collection of the Ashmolean Museum contains several brightly coloured Mamluk caps. One of these has couched metal threadwork similar to that on our cap and Italian running stitch quilting, dated to the late 13th- early 14th century, (Marianne Ellis, Embroideries and samplers from Islamic Egypt, Oxford, 2001, pp.92-93, nos. 64, 65). A number of talismanic shirts are also known, with verses from the Qur'an or other prayers on them, from throughout the Islamic world of the 16th century. This appears to be a hat of similar purpose, although here the inscriptions are stitched, a process that is considerably more laborious and difficult. In the shirts they are almost always written directly onto the cloth.
(с)Christie's

[Yuriy]

http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/Text ... _hats.html

Mamluk Caps
14th century Quilted Silk Cap
quilted indigo and white cloth 'pillbox' hat

This 14th century cap is composed of a long rectangle sewn into a short tubular brim, with six triangles forming the somewhat peaked crown, surmounted by a small ball bound with red thread.
The outer layer is pattern-woven (possibly lampas weave) silk fabric striped in dark indigo, medium indigo-teal, light indigo-teal, and beige-yellow. The patterns are woven in, featuring bands with Arabic inscriptions and bands with animals. The lining is woven of a bast-like fiber.
The pieces appear to have been quilted before they were sewn together. The quilt pattern of lozenges, stitched in red thread, can be viewed as overlapping six-pointed stars.
These caps were worn by men, women, and children in Mamluk Egypt. There are caps like this in a number of museums, including the Cairo Museum in Egypt (where this cap is), the Victoria & Albert Museum in London UK, and the Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York City.


Undated Pieced, Appliquéed Quilted, and Embroidered Silk Cap
red and black embroidered hat with long tassel

This cap, very different from the one above, is of silk sewn over a linen lining. The surface is composed of many small pieces of fabric pieced and appliqued. The main body is red, with attached triangles of black, red, yellow, and green silk. The whole is quilted to its lining with running stitches of red silk thread. A long luxurious tassel of red and yellow silk flows from the top center.
The pieces are enhanced with embroidery. Small circles of buttonhole stitch are arranged in various groupings around the hat, in red, yellow, green, both medium and light blue, black, and white silk. Uncounted long-armed cross stitches of alternating black and white or red and white line the edges of some triangular pieces and encircle arrangements of buttonhole eyelets. Many of the pieces are outlined with white back stitch.
It appears that the main body of the cap was cut as a rectangle and gathered somewhat at the upper edge to match the circle of triangles that forms the peak. This cap is one of six in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford UK.
Embroidery and AppliquЄ Details of This Cap. These details are very large: 417 K and 307 K. They will take a long time to load unless you're on a very fast connection.

[velizariy]

Источник: http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1950.525
Fragment of a Cap (Probably Type known as "Qalansuva"), Syria, 11th-12th century 11th-12th century
This quilted hat is one of a number of hats that have been recovered from Egyptian graves. It consists of silk sewn to a heavily quilted form, the top part of which is ribbed. The design of the silk is based on an eight-pointed star with paired birds above and stylized palmettes in the interspaces. Such hats were worn with or without a turban by persons of ranks.

[Nickolay]

http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1985.5

Cap with Narrow Bands, 1300s
Egypt or Syria, Mamluk period, probably sultinate of Nasir al-Din Muhammed, 1293-1341
Date: 1293-1341
Medium: lampas weave, silk
Dimensions: Overall - h:14.00 w:15.50 d:10.50 cm (h:5 1/2 w:6 1/16 d:4 1/8 inches)
The Cleveland Museum of Art - http://www.clevelandart.org/
Accession No.: 1985.5
Two sturdy multilayered caps feature striped silks with animals of the hunt alternating with inscriptions citing the prominent sultan al-Nasir Muhammed ibn Qala’un. The winter-weight quilted cap was part of a set with a matching quilted vest. Sultans and high officials may have worn such caps wrapped with a kerchief according to rank.

[velizariy]

http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/15838
Cap with triangles and stars
Egypt, 10th - 15th century AD

silk, embroidered with coloured silk; linen lining; lining sewn with a run-and-fell seam in flax
11 cm (height), 13.5 cm (diameter), ground fabric (linen), along length/width 18 / 18 threads/cm (thread count), ground fabric (silk) 0.01 cm (thread diameter), ground fabric (linen) 0.06 cm (thread diameter), additional fibre, embroidery 0.08 cm (thread diameter)

[velizariy]

http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/10841

Cap with fleur-de-lys motif
Date late 13th century - early 14th century, Mamluk Period (1250 - 1517)
Material and technique blue silk, with gold leather appliqué, embroidered with red and green silk; metal thread; linen lining
Dimensions
12 cm (height), 19 cm (diameter), ground fabric, silk 16 / 21 threads/cm (thread count), ground fabric, linen 12 / 12 threads/cm (thread count), ground fabric, linen 0.1 cm (thread diameter), ground fabric, silk 0.05 cm (thread diameter), additional fabric 0.01 cm (thread diameter)

[velizariy]

Дополнение к viewtopic.php?f=36&t=70&p=5451#p2894
Boy's cap with clusters and triangles
Egypt, Mamluk Period (1250 - 1517)
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/10743

coloured silk applied patchwork, quilted, and embroidered with coloured silk; linen lining; silk tassel; with stitching in silk
This little cap is an exceptionally pretty and colourful item with its long crimson and yellow heavy silk tassel, silk patchwork and fine stitching. It was constructed by securing silk fabric shapes onto a linen backing (applied patchwork) with two rows of minute black stitches. Diagonal lines of running stitch were used to stitch the layers of fabric together. Tiny eyelets embroidered in buttonhole stitch in contrasting colours form little clusters, triangles and hooked motifs.

[velizariy]

http://www.bursaport.com/haber/belediye ... 22841.html
15-16 вв. Бурса.

[velizariy]

http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/16122
Cap with interlacing circles and stars
Egypt, 10th - 15th century AD

light-blue silk, and silk and cotton (mashru), embroidered with yellow silk; cotton lining; with stitching in silk
11 cm (height), 17 cm (diameter), ground fabric (cotton and silk (mashru)), along length/width 70 / 18 threads/cm (thread count), ground fabric (silk), along length/width 60 / 60 threads/cm (thread count), ground fabric (cotton), along length/width 14 / 14 threads/cm (thread count), ground fabric 0.01 cm (thread diameter), additional fibre, embroidery 0.03 cm (thread diameter)

[velizariy]

Дополнение к viewtopic.php?f=36&t=70&p=5451#p2894
http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1950.510
Cap with Wide Bands, 1300s
Egypt, Mamluk period, 14th century

silk over bast fibers; lampas weave, quilted, layered, Overall - h:11.50 w:17.20 d:17.20 cm (h:4 1/2 w:6 3/4 d:6 3/4 inches). John L. Severance Fund 1950.510
Two sturdy multilayered caps feature striped silks with animals of the hunt alternating with inscriptions citing the prominent sultan al-Nasir Muhammed ibn Qala’un. The winter-weight quilted cap was part of a set with a matching quilted vest. Sultans and high officials may have worn such caps wrapped with a kerchief according to rank.

[velizariy]

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O353212/cap-headgear/#
Cap (headgear)
Egypt, ca. AD1250-1500 (made)
Woven silk and linen, leather, gold and paper/fibre, quilted

A head cap of woven silk and linen. Egyptian, possibly Mamluk, ca. AD1250-1500. From a tomb. The cap is comprised of a skull cap and a head band. The skull cap is made of six triangles of fabric sewn together. The fabric is blue silk and is quilted in geometric patterns with a blue silk thread. Decoration is achieved by design on the tips of the triangles. Three tips have six small holes forming a triangle, that are stitched with button hole stitch using blue silk. The tips in between have thin strips of gilded leather sewn across to form a triangle. One strip of gilded leather runs across one of the triangles. The head band (750mm in width) has one band (20mm across) of gilded leather strips. The rest of the band is decorated with quilted rows of zig-zagged diamonds that run around the cap. The lining is undyed, plain weave linen. Between the lining and the silk is a layer of paper/fibre which helps shape the quilted design. Paper has been attached to the band in recent times, using small metal pins, for support as one side of the hat is badly torn.

[velizariy]

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O229622/cap-unknown/

Egypt (made), ca. AD1000-1400 (made)
woven fabric and metal threads
Found in a Coptic tomb in Egypt as part of the funerary items

[velizariy]

В качестве небольшого дополнения и для сравнения с ранее приведенными образцами приведу тут ссылки и на этнографические тюбитеи.
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/15837
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/15839
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/10877
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/10875
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/10876