Рубахи. Артефакты XIII-XV вв.

[Denis]

1395г. (+- 35), мамлюки, детская, сшито из узких полос льняной материи с вышивкой коричневым шелком., имеются следы починок сметочным швом. /хранится - Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. Опубликовано - Islamic art in Cairo

1283г., мамлюки, женская, хлопок с вышевкой шелком / публиковалась - Momies du Liban: Rapport prйliminaire sur la dйcouverte archйologique de ‘Asi-l-Hadat (XIIIe siиcle). Groupe D’Йtudes et de Recherches Souterraines du Liban. France: Edifra, 1993.

[Timurid]

В контекст этой темы подходит ранее обсуждаемая нами рубаха из темы про женскую камизу.

[Timurid]

Рубаха, вторая половина 15-го века, мамлюки.

Close up view of neck edge.
I apologize for the poor quality of this image, but i blew up the yoke scan,
which results in a display of the low quality printing technique

Close up view of diagonally stitched motifs and tiny tassels. A little of the neck openwork is visible at the left.

Unfortunately cut from the garment it originally decorated by "fortune hunters", this linen tunic front is a veritable sampler of Mamluk period embroidery stitches.
* Pattern darning on the collar - a counted thread technique
* Drawn thread with overcast bars outlining the neck opening and for the star motif - a counted thread technique
* Individual cross stitches along the neck opening edge, not worked as counted thread technique
* Running stitch, stem stitch, and closed counted herringbone stitch for the animals and footed crescents on the body
* Tiny tassels worked in beneath the long vertical patterns on either side of the neck opening and below the center medallion
The embroidery thread is silk in colors including red, brownish black, white, and greenish blue. There are three closely spaced ball buttons with loop closures on the collar, and three more widely spaced on the front opening.

Может кто встречал более подробную информацию?

[velizariy]

Дополнение к первой рубахе
http://jameelcenter.ashmolean.org/colle ... bject/6516
Child's tunic with bands of Y-shapes
Tunics worn by infants and children were miniature versions of adult ones. More of these small ones have survived than adult-sized ones; the explanation may be that dealers only retained the embroidered parts of larger tunics. The garments are very wide in shape and measure more across from cuff to cuff than from the back of the neck to the lower hem. Like this one they have slit necks, wide sleeves and are made up of pieces joined by run and fell seams. This is a radical change of style and manufacture from earlier 'Coptic' tunics that were woven in one piece from sleeve cuff to cuff on wide looms and decorated with tapestry-woven ornament.

Embroidery was employed to embellish the new style tunics constructed from narrow widths of cloth cut in straight simple pieces. The amount of embroidery varies. We find some with just two shoulder bands of pattern darning, others with long lines of narrow geometric pattern running in vertical and horizontal lines, and others, like this one, with panels filled with an all-over pattern of repeating motifs. Here the tiny motif is Y shaped, but rosettes, fish and little birds also occur on these panels. The tunic has embroidery around the neck opening, ending with a little diamond-shaped medallion looking rather like a necklace. It is tempting to think this arrangement may be derived from the wearing of amulets and has a protective talismanic function. Life in medieval Egypt could be very uncertain and was constantly threatened by recurring outbreaks of plague and famine caused by the Nile failing to flood enough land.

[velizariy]

http://www.qantara-med.org/qantara4/pub ... ?do_id=373
Dress
Title/name : Dress
Production place : Lebanon, Qadisha region
Discovery place : Lebanon, ‘Asi el Hadath grotto
Date / period : Second half of the 13th century
Materials and techniques : : Cotton; decorated with embroidered silk, cross stitch, half-cross stitch
Dimensions : L. 73 cm ; H. 60 cm
Conservation town : Beirut
Conservation place : Directorate General of Antiquities
Inventory number : 25426
Between 1989 and 1991, the exploration of the Magharat ‘Asi Al-Hadath grotto, located at an altitude of 1,300 m in the cliffs of the high valleys of Qadisha, south-east of Tripoli, lead to the discovery of eight mummified bodies still wearing garments that were in good condition. The study of Muslim and Christian writings – primarily the chronicle of Abd Al-Zahir and the texts of the patriarch Al-Duwayhi – and the archaeological material of the grotto (ceramics, coins, garments, Arabic and Syriac manuscripts), dating back to the XIIIth century, made it possible to put forward the hypothesis that the women and children were buried there in 1283, after the attack of Sultan Baybars' army. Exceptionally allied with the last Frankish princes of the County of Tripoli, the Mamluk besieged the grotto of Hadath where was entrenched, with his followers, a dissident patriarch who opposed the Maronite patriarch elected under Frankih pressure.

Belonging to a young girl, this dress is one of the best conserved of the grotto, as it was worn over two other plain toile dresses that protected it from the organic fluids. Cut out of a cotton fabric, it is embroidered with silk. The embroidery work covers almost the whole of the sleeves and the upper part of the front, forming a large rectangular panel bordered at the bottom with a frieze of lancet-shaped florets. The ornamentation is formed of diagonal rows of cross-shaped motifs, red with white contours and blue lozenges at the centre. The background is marked with four dots forming a lozenge between the cross-shaped motifs. The patterns and colouring used confirm the attribution of the dress to the Mamluk period, because they appear on many embroidered XIIIth and XIVth century pieces. Furthermore, a striking analogy has been noted between the embroidery and ornamentation of the fabrics of the Turkmen tribes of central Asia. Their influence is no doubt due to the situation of the village of Hadath, a crossing point for the nomad Turkmen tribes travelling back and forth between the plains of ‘Akkar and those of Bika‘ (Beqaa) reported as early as the XIIIth century.

The cut, with back and front bottom slits, is original, but the overall pattern is one found in the Near East, for dresses for adults and children, from the Abbasid period to the present. The confection is surely local. Cotton and silk were produced in the region, and Baalbek was famous for weaving cotton, the ba`alabakî mentioned Arab sources.

The discovery of women's garments in the grotto of Hadath is of extraordinary importance. No garments nor fabrics from the Medieval period had ever been found in their historical context, in the ancient province of Sham (Syria, Lebanon, Palestine). They provide a good sampling of the costume worn by women of the popular classes in the Lebanese mountains at that time. It is surprising to discover, through these pieces, the permanence of a type of dress that is found with its cut and embroidered embellishments in traditional dresses, worn to this day by Syrian and Palestinian women.

BIBLIOGRAPHY RELATED TO THE ITEM
Cornu, G., Kallab, O., « Une robe de fillette libanaise d’époque mamelouke », in Archéologie Islamique, 5, 1995, p. 123-132.

Figuié, G., Kallab, O., La mémoire des Tissus : Etude des tissus médiévaux de Mgharet Aassi El-Hadath, Liban, 1999 s.n.

Liban, l’autre rive, cat. exp., Paris, 1998, Institut du monde arabe, Flammarion, p. 258-259.

REFERENCE BIBLIOGRAPHY
Cornu, G., Tissus islamiques de la collection Pfister, Rome, 1992, Bibliothèque Vaticane.

Tissus d’Egypte témoins du Monde Arabe du VIIIe au XVe siècles, cat. exp., Thonon les Bains, Genève, Paris, 1993, Présence du livre, Musée d’art et d’histoire Institut du monde arabe.

[velizariy]

Еще фрагменты сорочек из Египта. Датируются периодом правления мамелюков.
http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/15983
Fragment from the neck opening of a tunic with crosses and diamond-shapes
linen, embroidered with pink silk and brown thread, possibly cotton; remains of lining, probably linen; with stitching in flax

---------------
http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/15945
Textile fragment from the neck of a garment with vines and leaves
linen, embroidered with brown silk; with stitching in flax
29 x 11 cm max. (length x width)
along length/width 18 / 20 threads/cm (thread count)
ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
ground fabric 0.03 cm min. (thread diameter)
additional fibre, embroidery 0.06 cm (thread diameter)

---------------
http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/colle ... ject/15816#
linen, embroidered with undyed and beige silk; linen backing; with stitching in flax
embroidery bands 7.5 cm (width)
along length/width 36 / 36 threads/cm (thread count)
ground fabric 0.04 cm max. (thread diameter)
ground fabric 0.02 cm min. (thread diameter)
additional fibre, embroidery 0.1 cm (thread diameter)

[velizariy]

http://users.stlcc.edu/mfuller/sca/Textile444.html
Tunic with tiraz decoration from Fustat in Egypt. Manufactured out of linen and silk during the Abbasid Caliphate. The raw cloth is undyed linen with binding at neck and edges. Two red embroidered Arabic inscriptions in Kufic with elongated stems and one corner inscription. Specimen 73.444 in the collection of the Textile Museum, Washington DC.

[velizariy]

http://al-shorfa.com/en_GB/articles/mei ... feature-03
One corner of the exhibition features clothing, including the piece pictured above, that date back to the 13th century AD. [Photo courtesy of the Lebanese Ministry of Tourism]

[velizariy]

Concerning an unrecognised tunic from eastern Anatolia
https://www.academia.edu/2369499/Concer ... n_Anatolia

[velizariy]

http://www.alaintruong.com/archives/201 ... 72884.html

Man's shirt. Fine linen tabby trimmed in silk twill, Egypt, 8th - 12th century, 910.1.9. Royal Ontario Museum

---

Child's dress. Linen tabby with silk embroidery, Egypt, 14th century, 978.76.1004, 1006, 1007, 1013 Abemayor Collection, Gift of Albert and Federico Friedberg. Royal Ontario Museum

---

Child's dress. Linen tabby with silk embroidery, Egypt, 14th century, 978.76.1004, 1006, 1007, 1013 Abemayor Collection, Gift of Albert and Federico Friedberg. Royal Ontario Museum

---

Child's dress. Linen tabby with silk embroidery, Egypt, 14th century, 978.76.1004, 1006, 1007, 1013 Abemayor Collection, Gift of Albert and Federico Friedberg. Royal Ontario Museum

---

[velizariy]

https://collections.louvre.fr/ark:/53355/cl010045377
tunique
Date de création/fabrication : Mamlouks (1250 - 1510)
Longueur : 115 cm ; Largeur : 88,5 cm ; Longueur avec accessoire : 123,5 cm ; Largeur avec accessoire : 85 cm
Matériau : lin
Technique : toile, broderie = brodé